All recent comments/discussion

Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for Australia | for all countries
Showing 31 - 60 of 13692 comments
Rocket (also Arugula/Rucola) 11 Mar, Jen (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am looking for Winter Rocket..... is this just another name for seeds I buy as rocket.. or what do I look for?
Reply
Rocket (also Arugula/Rucola) 22 Mar, Tanya (Australia - temperate climate)
Arugula another name. You do not need to plant it every year - for example, in my garden (Perth) they grow and self-seed all year round! Just let them do their own things. Technically, my garden is in Automatic mode, other plants do exactly the same.
Reply
Rocket (also Arugula/Rucola) 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Look up an internet site to see the different varieties.
Reply
Watermelon 11 Mar, Lea (Australia - temperate climate)
How long do they take from seed
Reply
Watermelon 22 Mar, Celeste Archer (Australia - temperate climate)
From seed to harvest involves two phases: 1. Germination (from seed to seedling) 2. Days to harvest which is from seedling to harvest. For your seeds to germinate you need proper germination temperatures and some water (and sunlight). The germination temperature and days to germinate varies by variety -- watermelon seeds tend to like VERY warm temps for germination with germination in about 3 days at 30c and about 10 days at 20c. I would factor about 14 days for germination as a general rule of thumb. Days to harvest varies by variety with smaller varieties taking about 60 days and larger varieties taking closer to 90 days. ‘Charleston Gray’ harvests in 85 days, while Little Darling takes 65 to 70 days, Carolina Cross takes 100 days. I think most varieties fall into the 80-90 day category. Overall, I would allow 114 days, provided the conditions are GOOD (close to optimal) for watermelon from seed for most varieties -- and about 85 days for the smaller (smallest varieties) and you're looking at about 120 days for the really LARGE watermelons.
Reply
Watermelon 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Read the notes here.
Reply
Watermelon 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Read the notes here.
Reply
Cape Gooseberry (also Golden Berry, Inca Berry ) 29 Feb, Isabel Clarke (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
A colleague gave me 5 or 6 fruit from her tree and said I could just pop the whole fruit into a pot and it will grow? Will it or do I need to open up the fruit and take seed out? Pls can you tell me what to do with them?? Thanks :)
Reply
Cape Gooseberry (also Golden Berry, Inca Berry ) 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Just break it open and scatter the seeds about 100mm apart - best for when you go to transplant them.
Reply
Yacon (also Sunroot) 28 Feb, James (USA - Zone 7a climate)
Where to buy tuber/roots to plant??? Yacon plants.
Reply
Potato 24 Feb, Calfred Andawe (Australia - tropical climate)
I Need your assistance on how to plant Potatoes in Large scale in dry and Humid climate, full procedures on planting and harvesting
Reply
Potato 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
30-40mm apart and rows 60mm apart.
Reply
Potato 01 Mar, Faith Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 8a Mild Temperate climate)
Also -- please provide information about how large - LARGE SCALE is. That is: is this a 10m x 10m --- or a 30m x 30m -- or 100m x 100m -- if your up to tractor size... then you best bet is to talk to whomever is providing the seed potato in your area. They would best know what to broadcast and how to plant.
Reply
Potato 29 Feb, Faith Celeste Archer (Australia - temperate climate)
Are you looking for SWEET potatoes or regular potatoes ..... I think your climate is better suited for Sweet potatoes -- they are different (different families) and therefore have different instructions: The ideal soil temperature range for planting potatoes is 45 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (7 to 10 degrees Celsius). After planting, the ideal temperature for growing potatoes is 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (16 to 21 degrees Celsius). Potatoes do best in fertile, well-drained soils. However, potatoes will grow in many types of soils. Soils that are poorly drained tend to produce poorly shaped potatoes and tuber rot. Potatoes do well across a wide range of pH, but prefer slightly acidic soils; a soil pH of 5.3 to 6.0 is typical for potato production. If your soil is more acidic than this, mixing in wood ash will help raise the pH and make your soil more alkaline. Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are close cousins of morning glory and only distantly related to traditional potatoes. They are tender, so must be protected from frost, and like heat, full sun and regular watering. They crop best at temperatures of 21–26°C (70–80°F) PLEASE CLARIFY which type of potato.
Reply
Rhubarb 24 Feb, Helen (Australia - tropical climate)
I don't live in Australia anymore. I have retired in Cambodia. Where I live in Siem Reap has a tropical climate How can I grow rhubarb here in Cambodia, please? Kind regards, Helen.
Reply
Chives (also Garden chives) 21 Feb, Jen P (Australia - temperate climate)
I’ve been trying to grow chives in potting mix for vegetables since last August. Not one sprout. I’m hoping this round will yield something. I’ve grown them before and they grew like crazy. Using the seeds from what I grew.
Reply
Chives (also Garden chives) 26 Feb, Gary (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I have found commercial potting mixes to be a dicy and unreliable investment. I think that some are contaminated. The more expensive the worse. They seem to cause low growth rate or no growth at all. Also you need to prepare the soil at least Three month ahead.
Reply
Rhubarb 02 Feb, Mark (Australia - temperate climate)
a. Rhubarb leaves - yellowed/dead leaf edges (removed from plant 30 Jan) b. Rhubarb - overall stunted growth & poor stem growth; rhubarb should be in abundance this time of year planted in raised beds good high organic soil Ph 7.6
Reply
Cucumber 31 Jan, filippo italiano (Australia - temperate climate)
hi have eg planst and the leaves ar curling and doing up can you recommend the cure for the plants thanks fill
Reply
Zucchini (also Courgette/Marrow, Summer squash) 21 Jan, Michael (Australia - arid climate)
Hey guys 2 questions if somebody can help , I have 5 zucchini plants all looking healthy had a few fruits yet am having many smaller yellow zucchini, I am hand pollinating in the mornings yet these turn yellow before the flower opens Second question Have Black eggplant plants , quiet large lots of flowers yet not a single fruit yet Any tips for a novice gardener ? Thankyou
Reply
Potato 19 Jan, Dot (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
I want to get a crop in and I need to grow them in planter bags. Can I grow them in layers or only one layer per bag?
Reply
Potato 19 Jan, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
It depends -- not all potatoes are suitable for towering (layering). Additionally, I have found that the potato plant SPENDS A LOT OF ENERGY GROWING UP, UP, UP, as you cover its leaves with soil (leaves have specialized cells designed to collect light - and why you would want to cover them with soil is beyond me this is not really a good move -- leaves are not roots). My recommendation is: if you have a DEEP PLANTER bag starting at about six inches from the bottom -- in sort of a pattern that looks like the 5 on a die (dice) -- make about 3-4 inch round holes -- and make them on the sides that receive light keeping the holes about 10 inches apart (6 inches away from the bottom and 10 inches away from the top of the bag). Fill the bag with a good soil/compost/manure mix of some kind -- starting from the bottom -- when you are level with a hole, place a seed potato there, level or slight below the bottom lip of the hole, and about 3 inches from the side of the bag (so there is soil between the potato and the hole) -- continue up until the bag is full -- the top layer of potatoes can be planted as usual. Yes, the soil will come out of the holes ... not to worry -- just be sure that the soil covers the topmost holes by at least 6-8inches. That is - each potato planted in the bag should have access to a WINDOW (air and light) OR those planted on the top layer (like a usual planting) should be down about 9 inches or so. The Key to this planting is ALL potatoes need to be able to put leaves somewhere -- they will follow the air and light to find that spot -- all potatoes need water -- so you will be watering from the top of the bag only (like a potted plant) -- but you water DEEPLY, since the water needs to make it to the very bottom potato plants -- so maybe you water every 5 days or so... depends on the soil, temperature, amount of light , amount of wind/air (which whisks moisture away), Additionally, ensure there is drainage at the bottom of the bag .... maybe a two inch hole directly at ground level. It might be better to use a crate of some kind.... rather than a bag...anyhow this set up will work with any kind of potato plant without consideration as to whether or not it can handle towering. Hope this helps. Conversion of inches to cm : 1 inch = 2.5cm
Reply
Cucumber 13 Jan, Pitman Wayne (Australia - temperate climate)
CUCAMELON: This is the fourth season growing the Cucamelon in Adelaide and getting a better result each year, but the vine and leaves turn brown and die off rather early. Any suggestions please.
Reply
Luffa (also Loofah, plant sponge) 12 Jan, Vanessa (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Free organic spare seeds to an Australian address? Vanessa
Reply
Rhubarb 28 Dec, John R Pellegrini (Australia - temperate climate)
what is the best fertilizer for it
Reply
Rhubarb 02 Jan, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Any general fertiliser is good.
Reply
Cucumber 23 Dec, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
Cucumbers. I always grow Lebanese Cuces, supported by the chicken wire fence of my garden. This year the vines look great and there are lots of bees feeding on the flowers, but I am only getting about one Cuce per day. Feeding liquid manure, mixed with Dynamic Lifter. Any ideas why the crop is so small? Cheers Pete.
Reply
Cucumber 09 Jan, Gerrie (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Switch to fertilisers labelled "flowers and fruit", fertilisers with a lower nitrogen content. Animal manures have a high Nitrogen content that is good for basic plant growth. For example, Dynamic Lifter which is pelletised cow manure has an NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) ratio of 3.5 - 1 - 1.6 which is good for initial growth, but switch to another fertiliser when the plants are growing strongly.
Reply
Cucumber 12 Jan, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
If you compare a general fertiliser with some of these specialty fertilisers there is very little difference between them. I use Nitrophoska which is 15 - 6 - 12. It is used by commercial vegetable growers. Manures do not have high N content compared to commercial fertilisers. You just do not put raw manures on heavily, especially chook. You judge how much fert you put on by how high the npk is. A handful of fertiliser per sq meter is sufficient to grow a lot of crops. Applied a week or two before planting seed/seedlings and turned in.
Reply
Cucumber 02 Jan, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
A good fertilising at planting is all they need. A light fertilise maybe when they start flowering. Can't help with the reduced crop. I picked over 120 cues off 5 plants November.
Reply
Showing 31 - 60 of 13692 comments
Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.