Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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13 Jun 11, Les Telfer (Australia - tropical climate)
My Tomatoes Flowered Then turn black and drop off ?
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02 May 11, Judy (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
My tomatoes have been good but, because of all the rain, they've stopped changing colour. Should I just pull up the plants and let them ripen indoors?
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11 Apr 11, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You can over feed your plants but that usually won't kill them. For the wilting, the reason being is either it is getting too much sun and not enough water or justis not in any sun at all and is being over watered. Tomatoes like part shade but most sun and that's what I have found that works best.
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19 Mar 11, THOMAS (Australia - temperate climate)
Forget the Triffids. Cherry tomatoes will engulf the world. Not one corner of my 3 acres has escaped being colonised this year & I only had them in my vegetable patch last year. Harvesting bucket loads & making sauce but have to beat the field mice to them. Thomas
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17 Mar 11, Elisha (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted some tomato plants about 3 weeks ago in a supposed to be organic soil I got trucked in. Which as mill mud a sugar cane by product, and other goodies in it. I mixed dolomite, dynmatic lifter in the soil then planted. I am using sugar cane mulch and have liquid fertislied them with seasol and healthy earth. My tomatoes have now started to wilt. I don't believe its a fungus or a disease as when I cut the stems it looks healthy and green. I had 10 plants and now only have around 4 standing strong. Any suggestions what is going on? Oh I did fertilise them just before wilting as we have had a heap of rain recently with potash and blood and bone. Have I maybe over feed them. I didn't think that was possible.
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17 Mar 11, Liz (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Elisha, your seedlings might have 'damping off' disease. This is caused by too much water staying round the roots allowing a fungus to grow on the roots. If the plants don't improve in a day or so, it would be best to remove them and start again. Make sure that your soil is well drained.
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22 Aug 11, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Damping off can be avoided by spraying seedlings every few days with chamomile tea, which kills the fungus which causes the damage. Also move mulch back a bit from the stem of the seedling to improve ventilation.
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04 Mar 11, KEVIN HERON (Australia - temperate climate)
HI COL, YOU HAVE HAD A LOT OF RAIN? DO YOU FERTILIZE / WHAT TYPE OF TOMATO ARE YOU GROWING REGARDS KEV
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01 Mar 11, Col (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
In my current crop of tomatoes which are about 8 weeks old and 400mm high, three of the fifteen have wilted badly and are not recovering after thhee days. They are under 50% shade cloth due to the cureent hot weather and are watered at ground level every 36 hours. I have planted at the other end of the garden from last year, about 2.4 metres away. Any suggestions please! Col
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17 Nov 11, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I agree, not enough water. Early morning and late afternoon.
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Showing 631 - 640 of 819 comments
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The KILL temperature for tomatoes is 2c. If you expect your night time temperatures to be below 4c, I would cover the tomato plant with plastic, and remove the plastic in the morning. The plastic should not be touching the plant. You can cover the plant umbrella style or tent style (fully enclosed like a mini green house). If for some reason you expect to get a really bad cold snap, I would dig the plant up, taking as much soil as possible, you can place the root ball on a piece of plastic (tarp and wrap the root ball), or on burlap, or in a pot, or in a cardboard box... whatever, then move the plant into the shed/garage/on a covered porch close to the house and keep it there until the temps warm up again. The goal when temperatures drop is too keep the morning dew off the plant, and if possible provide warmth by placing it close to the house, or in a enclosed shed.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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